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There’s definitely no problem with helmet buffeting, as the air comes over right about even with my small tank bag. I can’t speak for how it would be in the stock location, but it’s not terribly tall, so I don’t think there would be too much buffeting anyway. It’s not so much of a “wind” screen as it is a “protect your instruments from bugs and debris” screen.

If anyone wants any detail shots of the lowering brackets I made, let me know and maybe I can take some pics…
 
1st frost this morning here in mid-Michigan, trees starting to change color ... but that didn't stop me from installing a new Penske 8900E rear shock ordered from Stoltec. As said before by others here on the forum... Nick's great to work with. Picture taken after a ride trying out the new shock. Still need to fine tune the settings but WOW ... a huge noticeable difference right out of the box. The stock shock really is a POS !! Next step... ordering new fork springs & cartridge kit from Stoltec to get the front end corrected.



BTW... Kinda like how the red spring color draws your eyes to the center / heart of the beast ! Ya, ya I know ... I've got issues; that's what my wife keeps telling me !!!

Cheers,
Jeff
 
1st frost this morning here in mid-Michigan, trees starting to change color ... but that didn't stop me from installing a new Penske 8900E rear shock ordered from Stoltec. As said before by others here on the forum... Nick's great to work with. Picture taken after a ride trying out the new shock. Still need to fine tune the settings but WOW ... a huge noticeable difference right out of the box. The stock shock really is a POS !! Next step... ordering new fork springs & cartridge kit from Stoltec to get the front end corrected.

View attachment 167747

BTW... Kinda like how the red spring color draws your eyes to the center / heart of the beast ! Ya, ya I know ... I've got issues; that's what my wife keeps telling me !!!

Cheers,
Jeff
Looks awesome! How difficult is it to install the rear shock yourself? I’ve seen videos online and want to take a crack at it, but I’ve not done it before so don’t want to get in over my head. Also, what made you decide on Penske vs other options?
 
Looks awesome! How difficult is it to install the rear shock yourself? I’ve seen videos online and want to take a crack at it, but I’ve not done it before so don’t want to get in over my head. Also, what made you decide on Penske vs other options?
Very simple installation. The front bolt can be a bear to line up and manage the washer(s), but you can do it!

I definitely love my Penske shock, you can really womp the throttle changing directions and the back end stays compliant. The stock shock will throw you into a ditch. :LOL:
 
Very simple installation. The front bolt can be a bear to line up and manage the washer(s), but you can do it!

I definitely love my Penske shock, you can really womp the throttle changing directions and the back end stays compliant. The stock shock will throw you into a ditch. :LOL:
😂 I’m going to have to look more into shocks as I’d only seen the Ohlins. I’ve enjoyed the DIY so far, so want to keep it rolling.
 
😂 I’m going to have to look more into shocks as I’d only seen the Ohlins. I’ve enjoyed the DIY so far, so want to keep it rolling.
This post and the next one have some photos of the install. Might be useful.

 
Slow_Rider, it’s not difficult to replace the rear shock on the XSR at all. What’s needed is 1) a way to suspend the bike up safely so the rear wheel is off the ground ( spool stands won’t work here), 2) removal of 3 bolts, - two that hold the shock in place, and the bottom dog bone linkage bolt, and 3) a way to raise / lower the suspended rear wheel slightly - once the new shock is bolted in - to line up the holes to insert the dog bone linkage bolt.
Taking my time, took about a hour or so to exchange the old shock for the new one.

Regarding rear shock options…over the years, many on this forum have posted about their positive Stoltec suspension upgrades. I spoke with Nick at Stoltec about rear shock options based on my non-track / street / highway riding needs and his suggestion was the Penske 8900E. He explained why this entry level shock would give me the best bang for my buck. I agreed, and ordered one the next day.

Before starting, a very good overview on the general shock swap process is TwoWheelObsession’s YouTube video on “FZ09 MT09 Shock Removal And Installation Guide”

There’s probably better ways to do this, but this is the process I use for the XSR :
  1. To suspend the bike, I started with the rear stand holding the rear wheel up. Next, I opened / locked my lil’ giant ladder in a “^” and guided it in place on both sides over the bike’s passenger pegs. Used a ratcheting tie-down strap over the second from the top rungs - down to the tie-down loops next to the passenger pegs to grab on to. Snugged the strap til the spools on the rear stand were about to raise - but still on the stand.
  2. Removed the nut & washer on the upper shock attachment point - leaving the bolt in place for now. Next removed the nut on the lower dog bone bolt - going thru the access opening in the swing arm - then pushed thru the lower dog bone bolt to remove.
  3. Removed rear stand so bike is safely suspended / cradled at three points - tie-down strap on both sides and front tire. Rear wheel is now completely extended with no pressure on the shock.
  4. Top shock attachment bolt can now be pushed thru / removed. (only had one washer on nut side)
  5. To get to the lower shock attachment bolt, I needed to push the shock unit up and forward so the bottom, curved “relay arm” - where the shock bottom bolt attaches - moves up, past the swing arm, so you can get a socket & wrench on it to remove. (this bolt had a washers on both sides) Pull out the old shock unit.
  6. To install the new shock unit, reverse the steps above: a) Install the bottom shock bolt & washers - torque nut to 32 ft/#s b) install the top shock bolt & washers (added the washer that came with the Penske shock to the bolt head side - torque nut to 32 ft/#s c) had to raise the rear wheel slightly - while bike was still suspended - to get the holes to line up for the lower dog bone bolt to go thru - Torque nut to 40 ft/#s
  7. Placed spool stand back in place and lowered bike down onto it. Done.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
 
This post and the next one have some photos of the install. Might be useful.

Slow_Rider, it’s not difficult to replace the rear shock on the XSR at all. What’s needed is 1) a way to suspend the bike up safely so the rear wheel is off the ground ( spool stands won’t work here), 2) removal of 3 bolts, - two that hold the shock in place, and the bottom dog bone linkage bolt, and 3) a way to raise / lower the suspended rear wheel slightly - once the new shock is bolted in - to line up the holes to insert the dog bone linkage bolt.
Taking my time, took about a hour or so to exchange the old shock for the new one.

Regarding rear shock options…over the years, many on this forum have posted about their positive Stoltec suspension upgrades. I spoke with Nick at Stoltec about rear shock options based on my non-track / street / highway riding needs and his suggestion was the Penske 8900E. He explained why this entry level shock would give me the best bang for my buck. I agreed, and ordered one the next day.

Before starting, a very good overview on the general shock swap process is TwoWheelObsession’s YouTube video on “FZ09 MT09 Shock Removal And Installation Guide”

There’s probably better ways to do this, but this is the process I use for the XSR :
  1. To suspend the bike, I started with the rear stand holding the rear wheel up. Next, I opened / locked my lil’ giant ladder in a “^” and guided it in place on both sides over the bike’s passenger pegs. Used a ratcheting tie-down strap over the second from the top rungs - down to the tie-down loops next to the passenger pegs to grab on to. Snugged the strap til the spools on the rear stand were about to raise - but still on the stand.
  2. Removed the nut & washer on the upper shock attachment point - leaving the bolt in place for now. Next removed the nut on the lower dog bone bolt - going thru the access opening in the swing arm - then pushed thru the lower dog bone bolt to remove.
  3. Removed rear stand so bike is safely suspended / cradled at three points - tie-down strap on both sides and front tire. Rear wheel is now completely extended with no pressure on the shock.
  4. Top shock attachment bolt can now be pushed thru / removed. (only had one washer on nut side)
  5. To get to the lower shock attachment bolt, I needed to push the shock unit up and forward so the bottom, curved “relay arm” - where the shock bottom bolt attaches - moves up, past the swing arm, so you can get a socket & wrench on it to remove. (this bolt had a washers on both sides) Pull out the old shock unit.
  6. To install the new shock unit, reverse the steps above: a) Install the bottom shock bolt & washers - torque nut to 32 ft/#s b) install the top shock bolt & washers (added the washer that came with the Penske shock to the bolt head side - torque nut to 32 ft/#s c) had to raise the rear wheel slightly - while bike was still suspended - to get the holes to line up for the lower dog bone bolt to go thru - Torque nut to 40 ft/#s
  7. Placed spool stand back in place and lowered bike down onto it. Done.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
Thanks both, this will definitely be useful!
 
I've been able to fit the 'SPITFIRE' windscreen by Slipstreamer onto my 2023 xsr900...It won't win any beauty contests but it doesn't look bad...I would have preferred a 'Cafe' Fairing but the Spitfire was online, used in good condition and for a good price. Rides down the coast from Monterey to Big Sur can get windy...so I've learned to appreciate the protection...I've still got my 2020 Katana (great bike but its 3.2 gallon tank limits its range soooo rides with any distance between gas stations become risky...I can see why Suzuki dropped it from their lineup)...PEACE RIDE SAFE
 
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